Orne’s Hidden Treasures – Le Conservatoire des temps jadis

We are experiencing some lovely weather at the moment here in Basse Normandie. It makes one want to get out and about in this lovely area we call home. Here, as promised, is the latest in the series of ‘Orne’s Hidden Treasures’. Rp has been exploring somewhere interesting to take the children, or grandchildren, when they come to visit. He tells us about his latest discovery.

It has been my experience that taking small children on a visit to a large zoo is a complete waste of time and effort.

The children have seen all the animals and birds on the television and their interest wanes after no more than half an hour. Thereafter, they only have two concerns – ‘Where is the café?’ and ‘Is the gift shop open?’

It can also turn out to be very expensive when there is a large family group. What you need is something on a much smaller (and cheaper!) scale. I have found just such a place in the Orne.

‘Le Conservatoire des temps jadis’ (The Conservatory of Times Past) is a small farm which is dedicated to preserving ancient and rare breeds of poultry. There are over 30 different types of chickens, hens and cockerels, including many with wonderful names – Yokohama, Hambourg, Hollandaise and Padoue.

Perhaps the most striking of all is the Sebright. It is the only bird named after an individual, Sir John Sebright (1767-1846), the seventh baronet and MP for Hertfordshire, who bred it. What distinguishes it in the collection is that its feathers are so arranged that they appear to be covered by a spider’s web.

My particular favourite is the Orpington, developed in the late 1800s by Willam Cook, who named it after his home town in Kent. The original birds were black but I liked the ones at the farm because of their gorgeous, golden brown honey colour.

There are also peacocks and turkeys, including the oldest American turkey breed, the Narrangansett, originally from Rhode Island. And no French farm would be complete without an example of La Gauloise dorée, the oldest cockerel breed in France, and now its national emblem.

On the farm there are also lots of rabbits, ducks, geese, sheep (which escaped from their pen during our visit!) goats and pigs.

The birds and animals do not roam free but they are very accessible to all visitors, young and old.

Look out for the plaques dotted around, for the children, which ask simple questions (the answers are there, too) but beware, the questions and answers are in French!

There are also a few games for the children such as hopscotch and croquet.

After wandering around the farm, make your way down the steps and walk along by the stream. You will arrive at a small picnic area where there are tables and a couple of swings.

The farm is quite hilly and, I would suggest, is not wheel-chair accessible, though you should have no problems with a baby-buggy.

The cost is 4 Euros 80 per adult and 3 Euros 80 per child, which makes it very good value for money, in my opinion.

The farm is open weekend afternoons, until July and August, when the only day it is closed is Monday.

The farm is a quiet place – the only sounds you can hear are cockerels giving it their all and squeals of delight from the children.

There is no gift shop – but, not surprisingly, you can buy eggs! 

 

Directions (RP has given directions but if you are coming from further afield, you might want to check the farm’s website here for details of opening times, directions, and a photographic taste of what you can expect to see when you visit. The site is in French but very easy to navigate.)

Take the D908 from Carrouges towards Sees and turn right onto the D2 (signposted Chahains and Rouperoux). Turn left onto the D226 to Fontenay-Les-Louvets. In the centre of the village, turn left onto the D204. Le Pouillolet is on your right and there is a small car park on your left, opposite the entry to the farm.

For the sophisticates amongst you who have GPS – the farm is Latitude 48.53617 … Longitude 0.006463.

Orne’s Hidden Treasures – La Tour de Bonvouloir

This is the second article in the series, ’Orne’s Hidden Treasures’. Many thanks to GW for the photographs. Look out for an article, focussing on something especially for the children, coming shortly.

 

In Basse-Normandie, between the tiny village of Juvigny-sous-Andaines (about seven kilometres from Bagnoles de l’Orne) and Bagnoles de l’Orne itself, you will find La Tour de Bonvouloir. Steeped in both historical fact and misty legend (aren’t all the best places?) if the sight doesn’t raise a ‘Wow!‘ as you drive between the hedges at the entrance, I’ll be very surprised. Frankly, no photograph can do it justice.

Originally, the tower was part of a chateau built by Guyon Essirard at the end of the fifteenth century, on land gifted to him by René, Duc d’Alençon as a sign of the Duke’s ‘goodwill‘, hence the name, Bonvouloir. The high, thin tower (also known as a phare) stands atop an open area which was formerly the huge courtyard. Featuring a cloche roof, cornicing and a stone staircase, La Tour de Bonvouloir is still an amazing sight, situated as it is in the quiet Orne countryside.  

                                     

All that remains today of the original chateau (partially destroyed during the revolution) are the tower itself and the smaller, wider tower to which it is attached, a pigeonier and a well. In spite of the absence of stonework, you can still get an impression of ramparts from the earth banks surrounding the site.                              

                               

 

                              

There is also a small house with the date 1658? carved into the lintel, perhaps originally the chapel which was a seventeenth century addition. During the same century, the ’chateau’ became a farm. 

                                

Why the tower takes the form it does, is the stuff of legend. You will find the story recounted in many places, including the history of the spa in Bagnoles de l’Orne. The legend is that the master of La Tour de Bonvouloir, being married to a young woman and unable to produce an heir, bathed in the waters at Bagnoles de l’Orne. Some time afterwards his wife presented him with a son. He built the tower in gratitude for the return of his youth and vigour.                              

                              

Today, the site is free to visit and an ideal spot at which to picnic and walk. Even from ground level, there is a great view of the surrounding countryside. While you are there, you could pick up a leaflet with details of locally produced, regional products and where to find the producer and add another interesting place to your list for visiting in this lovely and productive region.

 

Give your family a treat during your stay in the Orne, or even elsewhere in Basse-Normandie, this summer by visiting a site of both archaeological importance and scenic beauty. You won’t be disappointed.  

 

A final note. La Tour de Bonvouloir is also the first stop on the suggested tourist route of 25 kms through the forest of Andaines (Circuit 7).

 

Update – the Painted Church of Menil Gondouin

The recent article on the painted church of Menil Gondouin has received a couple of comments which have provided additional information about the restoration of the church. My guest, RP, has sent me the following:

Thanks for all the informative comments. For anyone who is interested, I read in ‘Ouest France’, today that a film of the restoration will be shown in the church at 20h 30 this Friday, 4 April, 2008. Helpfully, the short article says the church will be ‘heated’. Cheers, RP

Orne’s Hidden Treasures

This is the first in a series showcasing some of the less well-known landmarks and places of interest in the Orne region. With summer rapidly approaching, what better time to find out about these places than by taking some time away from the more popular, and crowded, tourist spots to discover what the Orne has to offer. My good friend, RP, introduces the series and the first of the Orne’s ‘hidden treasures’.

Whenever friends and family come to visit those of us lucky enough to live in the Orne region of Basse Normandie, it is only right that we should accompany them to, or point them in the direction of, the major attractions of our area. Most visitors wish to see Mont St Michel, the Bayeux Tapestry, the Normandy Beaches and the spa town of Bagnoles de l’Orne and quite rightly so, they are all world famous attractions. However, how much better to entertain your visitors with the treasures of the region which hardly anyone else has ever heard of, never mind visited.

One such ‘hiddentreasure’ is on our doorstep, at the small village of Menil Gondouin, four miles west of Putanges-Pont-Ecripin.

In 1873, three years after the destruction of the first building, Father Victor Paysant was appointed as Pastor to the unfinished church of St Vigor in Menil Gondouin. He immediately set about creating what he called, ‘L’Eglise vivante et parlante’ (a living, speaking church).  He wanted it to be , ‘a church that people want to visit and where they will feel happy’.

He began by painting an exterior wall with sayings from The Bible and elsewhere (I counted at least three languages, French, Latin and Arabic) and pictures of a lion, and a shepherd and his sheep. He then moved inside and let his imagination run riot. In between the paintings of various saints (Pierre, Paul, Germain, Barbe, Leonard, to name only a few) palm trees and exotic flowers adorn the walls in an amazing array of colours.

The pulpit, confessional and side altar are painted in claret and blue. The floor, from the front door to the altar, traces the family history of Jesus. Curiously, the pale blue ceiling is bare, except for one word in gold, ‘Alleluia’. Over the wall of the porch and bell tower are more saints and colourful flowers. A list of the places, including Rome and Jerusalem, the Pastor visited to gain inspiration, can be found on the inside of the main door. A painting of the great man, ‘Victor Paysant – 1841-1921- Cure de Menil Gondouin’, looks down from above the side door.

When he died in 1921, the authorities covered the paintings with a lime-wash and destroyed the statues the pastor had commisioned. That was that, until the early twenty-first century, when local people began to show an interest in restoring their ‘Painted Church’. The restoration is now complete and the church can be seen in all its original glory.

Is it art? I’ve no idea. I’ve no idea either why the church is not advertised more – although one local says that some people think it is blasphemous.

Is it a ‘Hidden Treasure’? Certainly.

Is it worth a visit? Yes!

So the next time family and friends come to visit – say you’ve got a surprise for them and take them to your local ‘Painted Church’.

                                                                                                          

                          The church is situated on the D15 -you can’t miss it.